  |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
16-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
Paint/Laminate
Dose anyone have any experience painting laminate. I am working on a retail project with a very low budget. We are salvaging some pieces from another store, including a fantastic ckeckout counter. The counter has a laminate top in a color that does not work in the space. I would like to paint the surface with the oil based paint we used for the floor. I'm sure it can withstand the wear and tear if I can get it to bond properly. Any thoughts? Can I just sand the top to give me a rougher surface to bond to?
|
 |
 |
posted by Brandon
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
16-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
More laminate?
Would it really eat up the budget to slap on another layer of laminate? That would proably be easier and give a better looking finished result.
|
 |
 |
posted by Olive
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
16-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
It might fit in, although...
It might fit in, although every dollar over is an issue at his point,however, my concern would be the same. What would I need to do to prep the laminate surface so that glue or paint would bond properly, because the surface is so smooth nad non-porous.
|
 |
 |
posted by Brandon
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
16-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
surface prep
others will likely comment further, but Ithink for both treatments you need only to degrease with something like TSP and scuff the surface. However I still think that relaminating would be best as adhesive would bind better than paint.
|
 |
 |
posted by Olive
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
16-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
Besides,
one scratch of the paint revealing the old laminate and it'll look like crap.
|
 |
 |
posted by Olive
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
16-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
In my
experience this would be a technial no-no, for the reasons stated; given that, it would at least get your client through the opening and for a while longer. It's the clear melamine top layer of p-lam that would be most resistant to paint adhesion. This could be sanded off, with a lot of 60-grit sandpaper being used in the process, as the melamine is very hard. Once that is penetrated, the subsequent pattern and backer layers will be a little softer and take a paintable (?) texture more readily. You'll know you're there when you see a brown color uniformly showing. Good luck!
SDR
|
 |
 |
posted by SDR
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
17-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
painting laminate
Actually you do not have to reach the phenolic layers. First of all a large percentage of both the coloured melamine formaldehyde top layer and the phenolic formaldehyde support layers are plain paper, white cellulose for the top, craft in the support layer. To sand down the top layer (if it is glossy it is almost pure melamine formaldehyde) is a good idea, but you do not have to go further. Both the cohesion (very low) and adhesion with both materials are similar. The resistance to wear depends on the quality of the paint, not on the adhesion, which is quite good. Make sure you do not leave any dust after sanding and always use a dust mask when you sand melamine. With 4-5 high qualified advisers on this one counter, this is not a low budget project anymore...
|
 |
 |
posted by koen
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
17-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
you can paint it
Paint away. Sand, shellac primer, latex paint and clear waterbase urethane. works fine.
merckx72
http://www.bearwoodworks.com
|
 |
 |
posted by merckx72
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
17-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
Thanks for the advice. I...
Thanks for the advice. I will look for everyone's bill in the mail.
|
 |
 |
posted by Brandon
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
27-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
If You Have Not Done Yet
I found this message on another site. I used the products here, and they worked great. I did my kitchen over five years ago! Very durable.
"I have probably "painted" over 50 laminate counter tops in the last 10 with great success. HOWEVER, I have used professional faux painting products to do this. If you want a counter that would be a quick fix, something that would only last a couple years with moderate up keep, then here are some pointers.
Make sure you properly sand and prime the counter first. I also suggest using Aquabond as the primer, as it adheres better than anything else I have used. Be sure to let your layers of finish set properly before moving on. Use a good sealer. I would suggest using C-500 for a durable top coat. I have used this to do counter tops in restaurants and one of them is 5 years old and still going strong."
Kathy
www.kbdesigns.biz
|
 |
 |
posted by Tishku
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
27-Feb-05 |
 |
 |
Excellent
Thanks for the good info, Kathy.
SDR
|
 |
 |
posted by SDR
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
02-Mar-05 |
 |
 |
theres a product in...
theres a product in australia called esp which preps surafaces for paint even glass apparantly glass - Heath
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
17-Oct-07 |
 |
 |
infor
could you tell me more about the products you used. I live in a small town and have to find out where to purchase these
|
 |
 |
posted by bet
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
17-Oct-07 |
 |
 |
not for painting
two mid-century surface do not take paint well; laminate surfaces and woood or wood-like paneling.
Both look crummy from the get-go, and over time, any scratches or marks will result in the laminate or paneling showing through.
I agree that if the color is not right for you (and I suggest you live with it, unless it's really a really hideous color) is to get the old laminate off and replace it with laminate in the color of your choice.
|
 |
 |
posted by barrympls
[edit]
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
  |
 |