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09-Jan-10 |
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Broken Arm on Eames Lounge Chair
Any ideas re how to fix a broken arm on one side of an authentic (not a knock off) Eames lounge chair? I had it moved and I guess the moving guys must not have been as careful as I asked them to be.....I found the cats knocking some screws around on the floor, then BAM: all of a sudden I was caught with a case of "chair lop."
I can see where it's supposed to be fixed, but I have no idea what to do or how to do it...where the screws went or even if those were the right screws (cats double as plumber's helpers, amateur carpenters, etc. but they suck at furniture repair).
Do I need professional help? (Please no comedy here...)
Or is this something which is fixable by a competent person who knows how to "fix" stuff?
All advice would be appreciated!
Thanks.
nygrl
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posted by
nygrl
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09-Jan-10 |
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So. . .
Broken wood ? Or just a loose part ?
If broken, can we see a photo ?
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posted by
SDR (USA)
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09-Jan-10 |
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No broken wood: just good ole "chair lop"
No, the wood is completely intact as is the entire chair; the problem is that it is lopsided (one arm only) because some screws must have fallen out which caused something inside the arm itself to "collapse." The entire right side (arm rest?) moves independently and seems have disconnected from the chair itself. If I physically "lift" the arm up and press it against the chair, nobody would suspect there is anything amiss.
I can take a photo and post it. (Not good at fixing anything, but super super good at photographing anything) I hope I am describing this accurately.
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posted by
nygrl
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10-Jan-10 |
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Sounds like...
... your shock mount has come loose from the seat shell. Search the forums and you will find threads regarding this repair. Unless there is significant loss to the wood or the rubber shock mount has sheared in half, you should be able to have it simply re-glued to the wood shell.
The entire chair comes apart with a screwdriver, so get to work and see where it has come apart.
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posted by
Pegboard Modern (USA)
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10-Jan-10 |
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You
won't be able to complete your repair if screws or other hardware are missing. So, you'll need to identify what's needed, and acquire it first. Then the reassembly should be relatively straightforward.
Owners who don't have tools, and don't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, are advised to get professional help.
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posted by
SDR (USA)
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10-Jan-10 |
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Knows when to hold 'em, knows when to fold 'em (but don't know how to post 'em...)
Indeed this does sound like the case from the descriptions of the two posts above.
No damage to wood, or to arm padding.
Yes, I recognize that the entire chair does come apart with a screwdriver. I have several screwdrivers, different types of heads, which vary in size, even have a variety of magnetic flat heads which fit on my drill.
I tried searching the threads for this repair before posting here (found nothing, but will try again) as so many of the other threads were remarkable in their visual and instructive detail.
Insofar as my "Rate Your Capacity to Fix this Great 20th C. Furniture Piece At Home Alone" is concerned: I know my limitations and where to pull the proverbial plug before the night ends in tears.
I appreciate the help here. I will send a photo.
Actually, I'll send several, but those belong to other threads; ain't like I'm "design stoopid." (Or "stupid" -- whichever. I swear: I can spell.)
Damn, you guys are tough, tough is good.
Chair is in my "professional" office...I'll send a photo, maybe you can help me i.d. exact nature of the fault if I cannot figure it out.
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posted by
nygrl
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10-Jan-10 |
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Did not mean to sound "tough"
Just trying to help.
If my guess is correct, you can find out very easily. Just take off the armrests by removing the screws on the underside. When they are out of the way you should be able to see where the chair has come apart. If, as I suspect, the shock mount has released from the shell, I'd quickly unscrew the other side as well so there is no excessive stress put on that connection. I'd leave the top half of the chair off until you are able to have the shock mount reglued or replaced. Then it can all go back together.
Best of luck. I hope it's an easy fix and you can resume enjoying your chair.
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posted by
Pegboard Modern (USA)
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10-Jan-10 |
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I have
not owned or worked on one of these chairs. My literature describes the arm as "twelve-gauge steel plates, bonded with foam rubber and upholstered with matching leather.: No fasteners are visible; does the leather come off to expose bolt-heads on the inside of the arms ?
People ?
(The finish is described as hand-rubbed wax. Is that still the case ? Surprising. . .)
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posted by
SDR (USA)
edited on 10-Jan-10 06:25 PM [edit]
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10-Jan-10 |
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You can see the screws
... but you have to be all the way underneath. They are otherwise concealed from sight. The padded arm comes off and there is another metal plate that holds the seat shell and the lower back shell together.
My understanding is that there was no clear coat on the rosewood shells. Rather it was an oil finish. I think I mentioned this before, but back in the day, Herman Miller would supply the customer with a small can of gunstock oil when they bought a new Eames lounge. You were instructed to oil the shell periodically.
I don't know if they finish the wood on new production.
This illustration might be better than me at explaining the assembly of the chair:
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posted by
Pegboard Modern (USA)
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11-Jan-10 |
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Chair repair
Please send your photos of the overall chair, and the loose parts and we will let you know what is the problem.
Peter
(edited by DA - no advertising please)
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posted by
Peter Triestman (USA)
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11-Jan-10 |
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One way to approach
a self-repair would be to disassemble the intact side of the chair, and then use the loose fasteners to determine what's missing.
People, do the shock mounts there stay attached to the chair or the arm, when it's apart ?
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posted by
SDR (USA)
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11-Jan-10 |
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They are attached to the shells
The front armrest shock mounts are glued to sides of the seat shell,while the rear shock mounts are attached to the backrest on the inside of the curved "lobes".
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posted by
Tulipman
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11-Jan-10 |
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So. . .
the only small loose parts would be bolts ("screws") . . . ?
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posted by
SDR (USA)
edited on 11-Jan-10 08:58 PM [edit]
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07-Feb-10 |
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Herman Miller Eames Lounge Chair Shock Mount failure
It is best to replace all the shock mounts if they are old. Neoprene oxidizes, a plasticizer evaporates out over the decades, and the neoprene (or later polyurethane) loses its strength and ability to adhere to wood.
Most likely, your shock mounts separated because they are old and oxidizing, losing elasticity, and don't have the internal strength to hold together any longer. Re-gluing the shock mount will not last long, and incurs additional risks. When the shock mount fails, the sitter can fall backward onto the floor, the back swings around, and a plywood "ear" of the lower back shell anchoring the shock mount (on the opposite side of the failed mount) often breaks off entirely as well, which is a fairly major repair. This happens a lot, and could injure the sitter. I am surprised the Consumer Product Safety Commission doesn't cite this problem.
Assuming that your neoprene shock mounts are old, they are irreparable, and must be replaced.
Concerning the shock mount types, you can use the neoprene/steel threaded plate sandwich design that Herman Miller uses, but our opinion is that design is one of the biggest design flaws found in modern furniture. That shock mount design should not be perpetuated, though Herman Miller seems to rely on their icon status and not improve it. A superior, proprietary design is to use ebonized solid beech wood plates with the same radiused shape and sectional profile as the neoprene shock mount, with holes drilled into the plates, into which threaded T-nuts are inserted, with easily replaceable neoprene bushing around the T-nuts, to provide the shock mount flexibility, without its fallibility. We have repaired numerous Eames lounge chairs over the past fifteen years with our proprietary shock mount design, and have not had any failures. Herman Miller only warrants its Lounge Chairs for 3 1/2 years, all their other furniture is warranted 15 years.
(edited by DA - no advertising please)
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posted by
Peter Triestman (USA)
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09-Feb-10 |
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Determining whtats wrong
Peter - go away, you're annoying and unhelpful.
First: under the arm you should see two hex-head bolts. An Alan key should allow you to unscrew those. These two bolts hold the upholstered part of the arm to the steel plate underneath. Remove the upholstered arms and set aside.
Then: Inspect the steel plates. They should be connected to seat of the chair by two bolts, and to the backrest of the chair by two bolts. If those are the missing bolts, just screw them back in - but tightly this time! :)
If that's not the case: The bolts in the step above are threaded into hard rubber bushings/shock-mounts. These mounts should be glued good and solid to the wood under the steel plate. If one of these bushings has pulled away from the wood you will need to have it re-glued.
I highly recommend (as do most people who have a brain and a sense of resale value) that you use a repair person who will reconnect the rubber bushings. I would highly discourage you from using a service that puts in a non-OEM (original equipment manufacturer) part. Frankensteining a chair like that will kill the resale value.
Personally I have used Alfie Hume on three different chairs and had great results - on one chair I couldn't even remember which mount had come unglued. You could also send the part back to Herman Miller for repair. I'm not sure who has better pricing these days.
Below is the chair, naked of all its padding. Everything should be pretty visible.
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posted by
LuciferSum (USA)
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27-Mar-10 |
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posted by
marko
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27-Mar-10 |
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Loose screws?
When I've taken these chairs apart (and I've taken apart several of them), the screws are usually very difficult to remove. The chance that any of the screws just worked themselves loose is pretty unlikely.
Lusifersum has the disassembly procedure roughly correct, although in most cases, all the screws holding the chair together are Phillips head. Use a large #3 Phillips, or you'll ruin the screw heads. I've seen the Allen screws too, but I think it's only on more recent chairs, and only used on the screws holding the arms to the steel plate. All the internal ones are Phillips.
Once you've removed those screws (2 hiding under each arm on the outside of the chair), you typically need to be "persuasive" with the arm to dislodge it from the plate. A good whack with the heel of my hand usually does the trick. Older chairs will be most difficult. But even newer chairs will often have sticky arms because of excess adhesive used to attach the leather.
Oh.. and for Marko, the factory adhesive is Scotchweld 1838. However many in this forum have recommended something called PC-.
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posted by
poach
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06-Apr-10 |
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xxx's shock mounts won't leave you on the floor agonizing over a broke Lounge Chair
Lucifer, I understand you prefer to have your chair shock mount fail and put in a rubber mount. Tell me if that is the case when you fall backward out of the chair and the opposite ear breaks off. What are you going to do, happily trash your chair, secure in the knowledge its still authentic? Good for you, but not everyone thinks like you.
We get dozens of inquiries with broken Eames Lounge chairs monthly. People should not have to be in this situation. Our "Frankenstein" mounts, as you call them are indistinguishable from the Eames mounts- we are willing to bet you could not tell the difference looking at our mounts, or Herman Millers'.
The real difference between xxx's mounts and Herman Millers', or the repros. of Herman Millers, is that our customers have never had a lower back shell chair break on them. And xxx's customers have only fixed their shock mounts once. Take your choice.
I think it would be really annoying to take Lucifer's advice, and then get lip service from him in this column when someone's treasured Eames Lounge chair shock mount and lower back shell break. Lucifer has little to say about this problem.
(edited by DA - no advertising please)
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posted by
Peter Triestman (USA)
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06-Apr-10 |
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Peter, your insistent abuse...
Peter, your insistent abuse of this forum is abhorrent.
Do you conduct all of your other business dealings in such a disgraceful, rude, and insolent manner?
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posted by
modesign
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05-May-10 |
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Missing mounts
My inherited chair has had what appeared to be collapsed flex mounts. But dissassembly reveals no mounts whatsoever. So the slack condition must have been some slop of bolts to plywood and couple bolts were missing. And the steel angle armrest connecting back to seat with the 4 holes and 2 holes for mounting leather covered square angle plywood arm base differs from the curved steel as your picture shows. I have not released padded backs and seat from the plywood shells but would like to know how to do that, as reconditioning leather and refinishing plywood shells should be easier and cleaner.
Thanks for any help. Larry
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posted by
La Eames
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05-May-10 |
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Hmmm-are you sure its a Herman Miller chair??
Your description does not sound like it's a Herman Miller chair.They all had 2 shockmounts per side,and I don't know how one could even stay together without them.Unless somebody cobbled one with bolts here and there.Pictures would certainly be worth 1000 words.
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posted by
Tulipman
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05-May-10 |
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Man, Peter you're a broken re...
Man, Peter you're a broken record. It's bad enough you incessantly tout your services, but when someone disagrees with you you talk to them like they're an ignorant little puppy. Is this the way you want to earn business? No matter how good you are, I have a tendency not to do business with arrogant know-it-alls.
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posted by
whitespike (USA)
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05-May-10 |
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Peter
GFYS. I think it would be really annoying to have an appraiser tell me my chair is worth a steaming pile of crap because I put in a frankenstein replacement part. Why not just drill straight through the shells- those bolts wont give out either, right?
And for the record Mr Smarmy, I TRIED having something repaired through you. I sent you an inquiry to price out the cost of regluing shockmounts on an LCW. Your response was "regluing an eames lounge begins at $700". So either you can't tell your ass from an LCW, or you were quoting me for a full 670 lounge. In either case your ineptness cleared up the decision to go with your competitor. Which cost me $50. So at the risk of repeating myself: GFYS.
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posted by
LuciferSum (USA)
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05-May-10 |
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posted by
Tulipman
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05-May-10 |
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posted by
whitespike (USA)
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