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Peter Hvidt Restoration

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Repair
- 23 Feb 2018 -
6 posts / 0 new
#1

Picked up a Peter Hvidt chest that had been in storage for quite some time and has taken a bit of a beating. Planning on giving it a once over - the top is quite dinged up with dark scratches and marks. Questions are:


• Any advice for working out the dings along the front tapered edge?


• Want to confirm sanding is the best way to eliminate the scratches on top - there is no "gentler" approach to remove them? For the most part they aren't very deep - can barely feel a divot when running a fingernail over them. The chest is solid wood correct? Not veneer? Just want to be cautious as the drawer faces are veneer.


• The other two Hvidt chests we have were missing the legs when we bought them. At $200 for the pair we weren't going to complain. I'm unsure if the original legs were teak - it's hard to tell from the ones on our other chest as they may have been replacements as well (three of them have no indication of ever having the dowels seen in the fourth leg pictured). Recommendations on type of wood for fashioning replacements? I've obtained all the necessary hardware (hanger bolts, wing nuts, and dowels), but would prefer accurately matching the wood to what would have been original vs staining a lighter toned dowel to match. Maybe I'm being too particular.


• Were these chests always teak? Noting a significant color difference between this one vs the other two we have. It veers quite a bit more dark red vs the other two which are a brighter honey tone.


Thanks in advance!


Peter Hvidt Restoration
Periods
1950 - 1959

Comments

- 24 Feb 2018

These are solid teak, including the legs. You can sand if you want. If you sand too deeply, you will expose teak of a different color. The cases are solid teak.

- 24 Feb 2018

Steam out what you can from the dents before sanding. You can do this by putting a hot iron over a wet rag or paper towel (blue Scott towels are my choice for this), or you can use an actual steamer (I prefer to use an X-Steam Travel Steamer for this on solid wood), which is a bit simpler. For deeper dents, you can try cutting into the wood with a razor blade (ideally in the grain lines) first to open up more fibers.

You can steam the drawer fronts, too. Just don't go crazy with it. If water is running and pooling, you're giving it too much moisture. The heat from the steam should dry the spot fairly quickly. Then sand carefully.

Use Teak for the legs, of course.

Depending on the color you want, I tend to suggest Old Masters 'Cedar' wiping stain when it comes to matching different pieces of Teak. It will give you that aged, red color and is easy to control.

- 24 Feb 2018

Thanks for the detailed response! I'll give steaming a go tomorrow. Started this afternoon with a good murphy's oil scrub-down. Looks like this one collected quite a bit of grime. Starting to revive that warm teak color.

Anyone have suggestions for where I could source 1-3/8" teak dowels? These legs look very straightforward. I found one place online, but it priced around $200 for the amount I need (5ft). Perhaps that is average? I've never shopped for new teak before...

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